Deira is just across Dubai Creek from the white sand and glassy palaces of Jumeirah, but it feels a lot further away than that. Firstly it’s nowhere near as sanitised, here it’s dusty - as you would expect a desert city to be, and very busy - as you would expect from a port area with all manner of fantastic souqs. The best hotels in Deira are a little less polished than what you’ll find along Jumeirah Beach, but they’re also more traditional, and some of them are really charming.
The souqs have to be your starting point if you’re exploring the area. Trading families have been haggling and sipping sugary tea here in the same shops for generation upon generation, and they’ll give you a fantastic history lesson if you let them. Some goods are manoeuvred up the creek in colourful dhows, just as they always have been, travelling between countries and bringing all sorts of unusual goods in. The oldest souqs, the gold and spice souqs, are closest to the waterfront, and you should definitely start your explorations here. The textile souq is also unmissable.
You should also check out the docks - nothing travels in shipping containers here, it’s all in cardboard or under tarpaulin. Shopping here is an entirely different experience to the 600 stores within the air conditioned Dubai Mall, and it’s definitely worth experiencing both while you’re in town.
Deira is also where you’ll find the Deira Clocktower, the Al Mamzar Beach Park and the Al Ahmadiya School, which was Dubai’s first school and has been carefully restored.
If you’re crossing the creek, consider the small ferries called abra.
The Ahmedia Heritage Guest House is a small, romantic hotel with a lovely courtyard and its own art gallery. The decor is traditional and you're right near the souks.
Dubai (Deira)
A lovely boutique hotel in the Al Ras quarter of Dubai. Chic rooms with gorgeous fabrics and antique four poster beds. Lovely breakfast courtyard and an art gallery. A romantic spot with authentic Arabic decoration.
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