If you want to escape modern life entirely then the 70 odd Orkney Islands are the kind of magical portals into peace and beauty you might be looking for. They’re just a few miles across from Scotland's mainland, but these green, and mostly flat, islands are rich in Viking lore; dotted with prehistoric structures and whisky distilleries; run around with beautiful, sandy beaches; and places where people are still more beholden to the sea than they are their smartphones. Our pick of the best places to stay in Orkney offer a warm welcome and a personal introduction to some of the highlights of these islands. Many also boast a wonderful view, great food and a good collection of whisky.
Of the 70 islands in the Orkney archipelago, around 20 are inhabited, but not all of those have guest accommodation, and the hotels and B&Bs in Orkney are mostly to be found on the larger islands of Mainland, Hoy, Westray, Eday, Sanday and Stronsay. Skara Brae is probably Orkney’s most famous sight, a prehistoric community predating Stonehenge and the pyramids. The houses of this community have beds, boxes and cupboards — all made of stone — that have survived 5000 years underneath the sand and grass of the beautiful, sandy bay. Mainland also has Maeshowe, a Neolithic chamber and cairn tomb built from huge sandstone blocks, some weighing many tons. And within sight of Maeshowe are the strange circle of 12, the Standing Stones of Stenness. Also on Mainland is the brilliant Stromness Museum.
The island of Hoy is well known for the Old Man of Hoy, an incredible rock stack balancing precariously on the top of an eroding headland. Only really confident climbers should attempt it, but the rest of us can certainly enjoy the approach, especially if you come through peaceful Randwick Glen, through the RSPB Nature Reserve — where you may see puffins! Hoy is a good base for walkers and birdwatchers. Its Scapa Flow Museum is ideal for days when the weather is a bit on the wild side. Westray is probably the best place to stay in Orkney for puffin watching, and if you’re here for the beaches, then Sanday is the island to visit.
However due to the limited options, the best places to stay in Orkney can get very busy during the peak summer season. So do your research and book well ahead to avoid disappointment.
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Orkney (Wynd)
A traditional barn newly renovated into a hotel. The Storehouse keeps much of its original woodwork and stone arches. The cosy rooms have individual contemporary styles but all feature low beamed ceilings and wooden flooring. The innovative kitchen serves local produce. A charming stay.
Orkney
A fine Victorian building right on Kirkwall's waterfront. Rooms are chic yet cosy with plush headboards, thick carpets, modern furniture, and black & white prints. With an atmospheric bar and restaurant serving local cuisine, this is a comfortable and well-priced base to explore from.
Orkney
Graemeshall House has had many evolutions, firstly as a house built by the Bishop of Orkney in 1626, then as a museum and now as a guesthouse. The place exudes historic charm with ornate furniture, crystal chandeliers and antique beds. An Orkney oasis.