Baur au Lac

As one of Europe’s great ‘grande dame’ hotels – founded 1844, and still family-owned – you’d expect Baur au Lac to command an enviable position, be sumptuously luxurious and offer flawless service. That’s all true, but it’s done in a smoothly, low-key way; if you want glitz and bling this is not the place for you. In a lakeside position, with a large terrace and garden, the hotel is conveniently close to Bahnhofstrasse’s designer shops yet screened by trees. Rooms are softly luxurious with a contemporary elegance: understated furnishings, big wall-mirrors, thick silk curtains and the occasional flash of boldness in a vintage black-and-white photograph. All the expected extras are there: free mini-bar, tablet to order up services, bowls of fruit and orchids while marble bathrooms – many with natural light – offer shower as well as a bath. Be aware, only the deluxe junior suites and above have lake views; standard doubles look on to the street or inner-courtyards though some (ordinary) junior suites overlook the canal on the non-street side. There’s a choice of eating from brasserie-style in Baurs and lighter dishes in the summer-only Terrace to exquisite two-Michelin-star dining in the Pavillon. Neither fussy nor tricksy, the latter is just exceptionally skilful: the silkiest of sea-bass in the crunchiest of skin with chartreuse, for example. Have a decent aperitif before to steady your nerve when reading the prices. But this is a special occasion place, and spoiling yourself is the order of the day.