Londra Palace Venezia

Hotel review

In Venice there are two classic views to wake up to. One is the Grand Canal, preferably the stretch on the St Marks side of the Rialto. The other is overlooking the Lagoon from the Riva degli Schiavoni (the Quay of Slaves), with views of San Giorgio island towards the Lido. Of all the hotels on this waterfront, the Londra Palace, founded in 1853, has probably the best blend of luxury and value. Family-owned and part of Relais and Chateaux, it has just 52 rooms, two-thirds of which have lagoon views, and offers a mix of intimacy and classic Venetian hospitality. Even for the rooms with no lagoon view, those on the third floor and above have sweeping city views towards the snow-capped Dolomites.

Upstairs, the decor in the bedrooms comes in several different colourways, so individual tastes can be catered for, and are done up in a mix of modern Venetian design and art deco, with lovely fabrics and playful wallpapers. Unusually for Venetian hotels, they are flooded with light, and a number have sit-out balconies. Downstairs, the ground floor public rooms - the bar, restaurant and a stylish salotto - have all been recently renovated, with hand-made Venetian glass pieces and stunning Murano glass chandeliers above a beautifully crafted marble terrazzo floor. They have large picture windows overlooking the waterfront, ideal for people-watching or surveying the bustle of gondolas and vaporetti on the Lagoon, something that has hardly changed in 500 years. The salotto has a fine collection of books on Venice and is a quiet place to relax after a busy day sightseeing. The LPV bistrot and restaurant offers a choice of fine dining (classic Venetian dishes such as Fegato with polenta) or bar snacks, often accompanied by a piano.

For something really special, splash out on one of the suites on the top floors. The Jules Verne suite (yes, he stayed here, along with Tchaikovsky, Borges, and D'Annunzio) with its sit-out terrace, for example, has a 360-degree view of the lagoon and the city, with the Dolomites clearly visible in the distance on a fine day. And even if you haven't splashed out on a suite, you can book the roof terrace 'eyrie' for a romantic dinner as the sun goes down. This boasts what has to be one of the most spectacular views in Venice, and is a favoured location for men to go down on bended knee...

Last, the staff are charming. Being family-run, they extend this ethos to how they treat their guests, which is something money cannot buy in this city.

James Dunford Wood Review published: 2024-09-20