The Brownlow Arms

You could be forgiven for thinking this is just a village pub, albeit an old one - 17th-century origins, stone-mullioned windows. From the outside it looks nothing special and Hough on the Hill is a quiet Lincolnshire village. But its 90-cover restaurant attracts diners from much of the county. Food is Modern British cooked with confidence but without fuss: cured sea trout with gnocchi and salsa verde, for example, or pork belly with black pudding crumble. Bread is home-made - perhaps coriander and chilli - and the triple chocolate brownie has a loyal following. The bar and dining areas are a well-judged blend of comfortable country pub and understated contemporary elegance: exposed-brick walls, beams and log fires mix with sober grey panelling, white cloths and creamy striped linen chairs. The five bedrooms are modest though comfortable with plain carpets, pretty wallpapers and solid country furniture. One room is cosily tucked under the eaves, the largest is in a separate barn conversion. All have views over village or countryside and have thoughtful touches such as fresh milk, bathrobes and DVDs. Everyone is welcomed by owners Lorraine and Paul Willoughby like long-lost friends. It can be hard to leave.