Cochrane Place

Teetering on a hilltop just outside Kurseong, the restored colonial home of Scottish barrister Percy John Cochrane has breath-taking views of tea plantations, valleys and forested hills. The wood-panelled interiors are dated, but the house is full of intriguing eccentricities. The grand hallway has a collection of bird paintings, antique furniture and quirky sculptures, and outside, a yellow Beetle hangs on a wall and a giant steam train shelters a crumbling garden pathway. The 31 guest rooms are, similarly, tattered yet regal, and the atmosphere is homely, made more so by the presence of Chuggy, the cocker spaniel. The restaurant, Café Chai Country, feels like something out of Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland: a giant spout protrudes from one window and there are teapot-shaped boards, on which are scrawled quotes by famous writers, such as Sir Arthur Pinero’s witty words, “Where there’s tea, there’s hope”. One wall is made of glass, so you can enjoy Anglo-Indian delights with a magnificent vista. During the day, visit the old planters’ graveyard, go to nearby Makaibari Tea Estate and set out on a scenic walk with naturalist Kalyan Subba. Then unwind with one of the hotel’s signature stick massages in the spa.