The Dera Kumbhalgarh

If you’re looking for something low-key but comfortable near Kumbhalgarh Fort, Jamna Shankar Ameta’s ‘tent hotel’ may be the perfect place for you. When it opened in 2006, there were just seven tents, but today, 24 rooms are scattered on a forested hillside. The eight shiny-new rooms lack character, but have modern bathrooms and private balconies with lovely views of the palm-fringed swimming pool and the valley beyond. The 11 cottages and five tents are more basic but have much more character. Each one has a different theme, for example, the colourful murals of the maharana and regal four-poster bed in room 109 conjure up notions of royal Rajasthan; another room is decorated with delightful paintings of Indian wildlife. The tents can get a little chilly, but the eager staff will happily bring you a heater and extra quilts. Bathrooms are simple, with canvas roofs, a basin, a hanging rail and a hand-held shower. For the best valley views, book tent 111. Scrumptious local vegetarian dishes can be served in the tented dining room or on your private terrace or balcony. There’s no wi-fi here, but at The Dera, it’s all about listening to the birds and the bees, watching butterflies and, of course, visiting the majestic Kumbhalgarh Fort around the corner.