Hotel das Virtudes

Hotel review

Located on an incredibly narrow side street, the Hotel das Virtudes all but blends into the rock amphitheatre that encases it. The building dates from the 16th century, and the recent renovation blends some of the original stonework with reproduction wooden beams. King-size beds, wooden floors, and furniture with earthy colours and tweedy accents, imbue the rooms with a cozy, lived-in feel. Yet despite the stone, it is an airy, light space. Almost all rooms are west-facing (which makes up for a lack of lighting within), and many come with balconies that benefit from the late afternoon heat, and have excellent views of the Douro River, the grand Alfândaga exhibition hall and transport museum, and the Arrábida bridge.

The location is premium, only a five-minute walk to the city centre. One of Porto’s few remaining trams makes a stop nearby, and to climb the steep hill to Virtudes park, there is an escalator installed nearby. The park, a terraced greenery, is the most popular spot in Porto for sunset gazing, though guests can get the same views from the rooftop terrace and bar.

Check in comes with a free drink from the lobby bar, and bottles of complimentary port are available in the room. The on-site restaurant Través serves traditional Portuguese fare with a twist – deconstructed octopus rice, pork cheeks with peach – and French-style desserts. A hot breakfast is also served here, with a variety of local cheese, meats, and breads.

While the hotel lacks a pool and a gymnasium, massages and personal trainers can be booked and tailored to your needs. Best of all, there is a sense of remove from the hubbub of the city centre, a feeling of being cloistered in a place of calm and quiet in a private Porto of red roofs, hanging laundry, crying seagulls, and the smell of grilled fish.

James Patterson