Le Senechal

Tucked in a prime position in the centre of lovely Ars-en-Ré - beside the splendid black-and-white spire of the church that overlooks the market place - Le Senechal is impossibly French, charming and laidback. A riot of staircases, corridors and courtyards, it is shabby-chic as only the French can do: rust-speckled radiators, ink-stained floorboards, peeling plaster walls. Nothing matches; TVs sit on old school desks, modern basins in battered chests of drawers, distressed-framed mirrors are propped against walls, fold-up garden chairs sit next to linen-covered sofas. Colours are pale and leached, floors are stripped wood or coir matting, windows have peeling shutters. Rooms vary from the snug and simple Classic’ (reflected in the price) through to the quite magnificent ‘Magnificent’ with fireplaces, claw foot baths (often in the bedroom) and bleached floorboards. Some rooms have tiny terraces, others overlook inner courtyards while others have glorious views over rooftops with distant views of the sea. They're shabby but relaxing with exotic flourishes - L'Óccitane goodies and Nespresso machines. There's a small plunge-pool and little courtyards crammed with cast-iron tables, benches, wooden loungers and overflowing with colourful plants. Perfect for relaxing after a hard day cycling round the island. Breakfast is simple but good - rolls, fresh yoghurt, great coffee - and while there are no evening meals, it's a stroll to the fish restaurants around the harbour.