Palacio Belmonte

Hotel review

Easily missed, Palacio Belmonte is hidden behind a high wall near St. George’s Castle in Alfama, the oldest part of Lisbon. Alfama is a warren of narrow streets with fountain-filled courtyards where the sound of fado carries on the evening breeze.

Palacio Belmonte was built in 1449 for the Cabral family (the navigator Pedro Cabral was later to discover Brazil) and it stayed in the family until 1994 evolving over that time to incorporate Roman and Moorish towers and a Baroque façade. Inside over 3,800 blue and white hand-painted tiles cover the walls. It has been restored immaculately by its present owner, who has filled it with antiques and his modern art collection.

There are ten suites, all individual in character and all spacious. One is in the Roman tower, another in the Moorish one, with a private terrace giving a panoramic view over Lisbon. All have sitting rooms, many decorated with 18th century blue and white tiles and luxurious marble bathrooms with tubs and showers and Aqua de Parma amenities. There is one house, which lies outside the palace walls but is within the garden and has two bedrooms.

In the garden where there is a sleek black swimming pool under cascading pink bougainvillea, lunch can be enjoyed. Alternatively you can cross the little courtyard in front of the palace and eat snacks or salads at the café. Next door to that and opposite the imposing red door of the palace is Grenache Restaurant, a newly opened gastronomic restaurant with French Chef Philippe Gelfi at the stove. With tables inside and out on the lovely terrace, highlights from the menu include sea bream tartar, wasabi cream cheese cannelloni, strawberry sorbet and cucumber water “vinaigrette” or confit pork cheeks, spiced red wine juice and spring vegetables.

Mary Lussiana Review published: 21/12/2023