The DeBruce

The DeBruce

How did it strike you on arrival? It’s the sort of old-school mountain resort you don’t see much of these days, a place where you can fly fish, or hike on private trails, or sit by the fire slowly draining a bottle of wine, or swim in the pool, or just nap, gloriously. The edges are still rough at The DeBruce, which is set in a decades-old building that was, long ago, a hotel. It’s been repainted and spruced up, but the Dirty Dancing-style rathskeller on the ground floor and lack of straight edges in the hallways are either charming or not. Nice. What’s the crowd like? A lot of people from Brooklyn. The DeBruce is about two hours northwest of NYC, and it's the sort of escape-the-city retreat that's big with weekenders and people looking to populate their Instagram. It’s the newest and most luxurious of the Foster Supply Hospitality properties in the area, a sister to North Branch Inn and Arnold House. The good stuff: Tell us about your room. I was in Room 7, with sweeping views over the Willowemoc Creek that runs right next to the property. It wasn't super spacious—this is an old hotel—but it was plenty chic with a clawfoot tub, lots of lamps, and a very comfortable bed. How about the little things, like mini bar, or shower goodies. Any of that find its way into your suitcase? No minibars here, but you don't need 'em: This hotel is a destination not so much for the setting—which is lovely—as the food. Chef Aksel Theilkuhl is making it work with locally foraged ingredients and a restrained hand with foams and other avant-garde techniques. That same dedication spills over to the drinks, which are on offer at the basement bar or in the lobby or pretty much anywhere else you want. When it comes to a snack, a drink, or anything else, just ask. Room service: Worth it? You probably wouldn't eat in your room when the dining room is just downstairs, but definitely you're here for the food. The first time I ate pickled deer heart, chef Theilkuhl brought it to me hanging from a wrought iron cross. The weird thing was, it wasn’t nearly as gimmicky as it sounds. Weirder still, I was having a fantastic time eating his nine-course tasting menu that was imaginative, delicious, not nearly as stilted as “nine-course tasting menu” makes it sound. And the deer heart? It was pretty damn good. There’s an a la carte menu every night but Saturday, so you don’t have to go all in unless you want to. But really my favorite meal was breakfast: Roll downstairs at whatever time you want, grab a cup of super dark coffee, and get the duck hash, topped with an egg from just down the road and housemade aji chile hot sauce. I’d eat it every single day if I didn’t have to save room for cured deer hearts. Anything stand out about other services and features? Whether it’s childcare, gyms, spas, even parking—whatever stuck with you. I didn't get to try the pool on my visit—it was well below freezing—but even better is the trout-filled creek running through the acres and acres of land behind the hotel. They've also got a network of private hiking trails and can hook you up with fishing guides, hunting excursions, or pretty much anything else you wanna try in the realm of country pursuits. You won't miss the fact that there's no gym. Bottom line: worth it, and why? Absolutely. While it sounds kinda like Twin Farms or The Point, there's not exactly that level of polish here—though most people won't mind. It's not exactly a cheap place to stay, but the rate includes pretty much everything—including dinner from chef Aksel—and is a great value all things considered.

Originally published by CN Traveller