Beer, an impressive range of local sausage, beautiful Bavarian architecture, and the latest in automobile technology, Munich is a fantastically varied centre. It’s wealthy, but also fun and laid back, and its neighbourhoods reflect all these facets of Munich — and probably more! — with accommodation to match every kind of traveller, and plenty of variety when it comes to scale and price too.
Marienplatz in the Altstadt is still at the heart of central Munich. This is where you’ll find the imposing Residenz, former capital building of Bavaria, and now a museum — the Münchner Stadtmuseum. As the historic streets and passages of the Altstadt spread out you’ll come across a forest of grand Bavarian architecture, as well as the Asamkirche, and many of Munich’s museums. galleries, attractions, and other major sights. To the north is the Maxvorstadt neighbourhood, which is known for being arty and intellectual, as well as pretty. Maxvorstadt has several art museums, two major universities, and numerous lively beer gardens. This is also where you’ll find the leafy Englischer Garten, a casually landscaped civic park larger than both London’s Hyde Park, and New York’s Central Park.
On the far side of the Englischer Garten is Schwabing, known for Art Nouveau buildings and elegant boulevards. On the opposite side of the Isar River, which runs through Munich, is Bogenhausen, another upscale neighbourhood with a leafy atmosphere, elegant architecture and a village-y feel. Haidhausen and Au are just along the east bank of the river from Bogenhausen, and offer more leafy streets, boutique and cafe-lined boulevards, and a smattering of great attractions. Au has the Deutsche Museum, Munich’s famed science and technology museum, and Haidhausen is often referred to as the ‘French Quarter’. Munich’s livelier neighbourhoods are around Glockenbachviertel, which is known for its theatre and art scene, as well as for its food, nightclubs and live music venues.
A stroll through Munich’s Old Town is an opportunity to take a series of snapshots of old, grand Munich, as well as experiencing the atmosphere of this vibrant, contemporary city. Marienplatz, the central square, has marked the hub of Munich since the 12th century, and is a great place to start any explorations of Munich’s Altstadt. The neo-Gothic Town Hall is on one side of the square (its famous glockenspiel always draws a crowd), with the Neues Rathaus — or new Town Hall — on another side of the square. Between Marienplatz and neighbouring Karlsplatz is a pedestrianised stretch, one of the best places to shop in town, with some good cafes, bars and restaurants too. Odeonsplatz is another important square in this neighbourhood, with the perfectly landscaped Hofgarten on one side, and the impressive Bavarian State Government offices on the other. The Altstadt’s religious buildings are well worth seeking out too, from the Gothic domes of Frauenkirche to the photogenic views from the top of St. Peter’s roof. Munich’s Altstadt neighbourhood isn’t just for visitors, tourists and workers. The main market, the Vikualienmarkt, is still much used and loved, and there are plenty of un-touristy places to eat and drink, as well as boutiques and specialist shops. There’s a great range of accommodation in the Altstadt too, from fancy international hotels, to boutique charmers, and aparthotels.
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The Maxvorstadt is the place to stay if Munich’s famed museums are one of the main reasons you’re visiting. It is home to the trio of Pinakothek art museums (the Alt Pinakothek, the Neue Pinakothek, and the Pinakothek der Moderne), plus the Brandhorst Museum, the Haus der Kunst, the Bavarian State Library, and St. Ludwig’s Church. Just down the road is the Siegestor, the war-torn triumphal arch, beyond which is the Englischer Garten. Right next door is the Augustiner-Kelleer beer hall, a huge beer hall — flagship for one of Munich’s oldest breweries, with a 5,000 seat beer garden! Much of Maxvorstadt’s grandeur is neatly arranged along the incredible Ludwigstrasse: a 1250 metre long street lined with majestic buildings and ending in the even grander Königsplatz, home to the Glyptothek, the Antikensammlungen, and the Propyläen. Maxvorstadt also has the botanical gardens; it’s here you’ll find the Hofgarten. Its universities give the nieghbourhood a youthful edge: there are great secondhand book shops, laundrettes, copy shops and a myriad of cafes, bars and restaurants.
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Glockenbachviertel is a fantastic neighbourhood to stay in if you want to be close to the buzziest nightlife spots in town. It’s a central spot, within easy walking distance from many of Munich’s main sights, yet it’s far enough off the tourist trails to offer a more authentic picture of Munich. Glockenbach is a trendy neighbourhood, arranged around Gärtnerplatz which has some of Munich’s most popular theatres lining its edges, and fountains and flower beds within it. It’s a relaxed place to watch the world go by, with great cafes and bars, and restaurants scattered amongst the local boutiques and chic grocery stores. It’s especially lovely on a summers evening, and popular with families, as well as cool kids. Expect 50s and 60s design and architecture. When it comes to nightlife, there are a myriad of options in Glockenbach, from dance clubs to beer gardens — with live music or without — and there are just as many choices when it comes to dining.
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Haidhausen is one of Munich’s prettiest, and quietest neighbourhoods, perfectly positioned, on the east bank of the Isar River. Lining the river and nearby squares and parks are a lovely collection of cafes, bars and restaurants — ideal places for watching the world go by! Spreading out from the squares and parks are narrow streets lined with little local shops and delis. Haidhausen’s pretty churches are a reminder that this used to be a village, and there’s still something of a village feel today. Some of the old inns have been carefully restored, and are now elegant places for visitors to stay. Haidhausen’s grander squares date from the 19th century, but the busiest square is Wiener Platz, which has a market with stands bulging with fish, wine, bread, fruit and vegetables, cheese, flowers… If you’re looking for more formal attractions explore the impressive Maximilianeum, seat of the Bavarian government, and Einstein and Gasteig, both cultural centres, the latter home to the Munich Philharmonic.
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Schwabinger Tor is a desirable place to live, and to stay, away from the busiest and most touristy parts of Munich, and with a laid back, affluent air. It’s close to the Englischer Garten, a surprisingly large, informally landscaped green space, complete with meadows of grass and mature trees, bike trails and little streams and rivers which you can swim in. It also has a couple of very elegant boulevards, Leopoldstraße and Hohenzollernstraße, which are perfect for strolling, and people watching, with great boutiques, plus cafes, bars, restaurants that spill out onto the streets in fine weather. Schwabinger Tor was home to artists and writers at the turn of the the 20th Century, including Kandinsky and Werefkin, whose work can be seen locally at the Lenbachhaus.
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Like Schwabinger Tor, Bogenhausen is another upscale district. It started out as a farming village, and despite the number of elegant old Art Nouveau villas and grand shopping streets, Bogenhausen’s many green spaces lend it something of a village feel still, though close to the Herzopark the villas are grand enough to be listed, and to have acres of their own gardens! One of Bogenhausen’s most famous landmarks is its cemetery, a place where many of Munich’s best-known sons and daughters were/are laid to rest. Another is the Prinzregentenbad outdoor swimming pool, and the Prinzregententheatre, which is known for hosting a very wide range of performances — including opera and cabaret. Bogenhausen is also known for its graffiti — there’s a lot it alongside the Isar.
