The Oberoi Amarvilas Agra

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Although built only a little over 20 years ago, the Oberoi Amarvilas has an air of timeless grandeur, inspired by the designs and scale of the ancient Moghuls. It's the nearest hotel to the Taj Mahal and sits in perfect harmony with that astonishing monument, which rises regally over the fertile forest beyond the hotel gardens. Each of the 102 rooms and suites face the Taj Mahal to the east, with large windows looking over the elegant terraces of the water gardens echoing to the sounds of fountains, subtly lit up at night, to give the impression of a thousand fireflies.

This hotel has deservedly won the reputation of being the very best of Indian hospitality. The front of house and the level of service are unsurpassable, creating calm, comfort and individual care. There is a palpable feeling of delight and pride in their collective endeavour to give a royal welcome to everyone who has the good fortune to be their guest.

The elegant rooms are beautifully styled, with every detail considered. The eco credentials are enviable - the floral decorations are repurposed into carpets of petals, bath products are presented in dark blue enamelled metal bottles, the unused dinner is made into the breakfast paratha, the teas offered in the rooms are organic. There is a sense of a synergy between the health and well-being of the individual, the soil and the planet. The spa offers a wide range of therapies, using Ayurvedic products, as well as a gym and free daily yoga sessions.

There are two restaurants, both superb. One offers Indian and Asian specialities, the other caters for Western tastes. The staff are familiar with every dish, and can describe the ingredients and provenance of each. Everything is made on site. The wine list is incomparable. For breakfast, guests must resist the temptation to savour every dish from the 5 or 6 differently themed tables. A quick look into the kitchen reveals bustling areas for each cuisine, including a bakery, employing over 50 chefs in shifts around the clock, whose smiles and greetings reveal a joint pride in their skills.

The appreciation of the arts and traditions of India is evident, be it in the printed textiles worn by the hotel staff, or a live flute setting a gentle pace to the day. The adjacent boutiques offer the celebrated local craftsmanship of marble inlay, together with metal work, miniature painting, and embroideries from neighbouring states.

Enduring impressions are of cheerful teamwork, textures and patterns, the gentle sounds of live music and dance, the running water in the terraced gardens, cascading down to the deep blue swimming pool with its changing rooms under arches among the active treatment rooms; of intriguing tastes of unfamiliar cuisines, of smiling, contented staff, of quiet comfortable beds with an array of pillow choices to suit every sleeper, of hassle free visits to the Taj Mahal, and a desire to have spent longer in this glorious hotel with its spectacular surroundings. Indeed, the whole guest experience at this Mother India oasis of welcome is to be reminded of the kindness of strangers in this wonderfully complex and multi layered society.

Hugh Dunford Wood Publié: 23/09/2024