Carmarthenshire is often referred to as the “Garden of Wales”. It’s a place of wild rolling foothills peppered with medieval castles, ancient forests, golden coastlines and rugged mountains. Dylan Thomas loved it to the point of inspiration, and his relationship with the countryside draws many of the region’s visitors today — It’s hard to read his work without needing to see the landscape for yourself! The best places to stay in Carmarthenshire range from picturesque B&Bs to converted country mansions, as well as Dylan Thomas’s old favoured watering hole, Browns Hotel.

If Thomas has drawn you here, his boathouse, overlooking Carmarthen Bay, is the perfect place to start. His manuscripts, notes, and boiled sweets are all still here!  After that you might want to explore the colourful seaside villages radiating out from the bay.

Inland Carmarthenshire offers a scattering of charming Welsh towns and villages, ancient forests and woodlands, and wetlands, leading towards the mountainous bulk of the Brecon Beacons National Park. Walkers will pass numerous ruined castles on hill crests, but we especially recommend Carneg Cenmen Castle in Trapp, and the castles of Laugharne, Llansteffan and Kidwelly, which all have magnificently fading medieval and Norman architecture. There’ll be an opportunity to canoe or kayak the rapids of the River Teifi en route, or explore the wetlands.

Almost all the recommendations on our list of the best places to stay in Carmarthenshire are well priced. But the only reason this region isn’t more popular, and thus more expensive, is that visitors must be keeping quiet about it on their return, because Dylan Thomas was definitely on to something!

The Best Places to Stay in Carmarthenshire

For Dylan Thomas Fans

• Browns Hotel was immortalised by Dylan Thomas — he apparently visited twice a day — it was his favoured watering hole in Laugharne. Dating from the 18th century, the hotel today offers smart modern accommodation with a chic boutique vibe.  There are 14 rooms and suites, decorated individually to make the most of the exposed stone, huge beams, and other original features. Dexter's Restaurant champions amazing locally grown steaks and the bar is the place to soak up the scene.

For a Village Escape

• Llandeilo’s The Cawdor is a charming Georgian building — painted a deep red — in the centre of the village, surrounded by galleries, and antique and specialist shops. It has 23 rooms and suites, large ones, with well appreciated original features, but simple contemporary furnishings. Each of the rooms is unique, and they’re priced accordingly. Downstairs there’s an informal bar and lounge, and a large restaurant known for its local Welsh recipes. A great base from which to explore the region.

For Walkers

• The New White Lion is an elegant little B&B in Llandovery, close to both the Brecon Beacons and the Cambrian Mountains. We highly recommend it for walkers and cyclists. It’s welcoming and cosy, with log fires in the season and several rooms with large bath tubs. The generous breakfasts will really set you up for the day. Child-friendly and close to a golf course too.
• Glangwili Mansion is another warm and welcoming B&B, this time in a picturesque rural spot outside the village of Llanllawddog. As well as walkers and cyclists, this B&B is ideal for fans of all sorts of outdoor pursuits. There’s a lot to do in the area, starting with walks right out of the front door, and croquet and boules on the front lawn. There are four guest rooms inside the converted mansion, all of them spacious and light, with beautiful garden views.

Prefer a Private Apartment or Cottage?

• If you'd prefer the privacy of a self-catering option then browse through the wide variety available online with our partner, Booking.com.

Travel Information

• Cardiff Airport is probably the closest airport to Carmarthenshire, about an hour away by road from Carmarthen, or about two hours away by rail. Bristol Airport is just across the water, and about two hours away by car, or four by rail. If you’re travelling via London trains leave from Paddington Station, and take around two and a half hours to reach Carmarthen.
• If you want to hire a car we recommend you visit our online partner, Rentalcars.
• Though beautiful, Carmarthenshire isn’t a particularly popular destination, it’s well known by horticulturalists and walkers, and lovers of Dylan Thomas, but it doesn’t really have a busy tourist season. It’s definitely more popular during the spring and summer, corresponding with many people’s expeditions into spectacular south Wales, but some of our walking Gurus consider the autumn months the best time to visit. Whatever time of year you plan to visit it’s worth packing your wet weather gear, because Carmarthenshire gets eight to ten days of rain a month, on average.

Still not sure where to stay?

• Expand your search to include all of the best hotels in south Wales or the best hotels on the Gower Peninsula
• Refine your search by the kind of accommodation you’re looking for. Consider our Gurus' recommendations for the best pubs-with-rooms in Wales 
• Or you could contact one of our friendly Gurus for personalised advice.