Hotel Boutique Goiko Benta

Perched above a mountain village that is home to a remarkable religious sanctuary, this sturdy stone building stands right on the Ignatian Way, the route ostensibly followed by Ignatius de Loyola in 1522. Grey limestone crags tower all around, and much of the time the gentle clonking of horse bells in the hill pasture opposite is the loudest sound you'll hear. Café tables stand on a flagstone terrace outside Goiko Benta's bar, which is a favourite with a handful of amiable, elderly locals. Inside, the ground floor houses the reception area and a spacious restaurant where in the morning you'll find a buffet spread of ham, bread, local cheeses and more to set you up for the next day's walking. In the evening, it serves tasty Basque pintxos (the local rival to tapas) and more substantial traditional dishes. Upstairs, however, bedrooms depart from tradition. Old design elements like exposed stonework and dark ceiling beams have been kept, but alongside bright white bathrooms with walk-in showers, polished plank floors, comfortable double and twin beds and central heating. As a place for explorers to rest up for a night or two, it's unbeatable in this part of the world.