Florence is the favourite city of many a traveller, loved for its art, architecture, cuisine, and history. Unusually for such a popular destination, the big hotel chains haven’t made huge inroads here, so the Florentine accommodation scene includes numerous converted palazzos and historic villas, townhouse hotels, and other independently run properties. Many visitors opt to stay in Florence’s historic centre, but if you’re staying for a bit longer, visiting in the summer, or looking for a more relaxed visit, it’s worth considering some of Florence’s other neighbourhoods.
by AMY CORCORAN
The historic city of Florence is actually very small by today’s standards. You can walk from one side to the other in about 30 minutes, and many of the city's landmark sights are within this area. Florence’s main station, Santa Maria Novella, is just five minutes' walk from the Duomo — which is, in turn, about five minutes' walk from the Ponte Vecchio, the Uffizi and the Palazzo Vecchio. And with no cars, this is a super easy area to stroll around. There’s lots of accommodation within Florence’s historic centre, and during the summer there’s a pleasant buzz through this area until late into the evening, as people enjoy meals out overlooking historic squares. In this area you'll find a concentration of Florence’s five star hotels, and grand palazzo conversions with views of the Arno, or the Duomo — two of Florence’s most highly prized views. Affordable accommodation exists, you just have to book it well in advance! In the peak summer season the Centro Storico is hot and busy, and it's worth noting that only a small number of hotels have pools.
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The Piazza della Signoria is Florence’s main square, closest to the Duomo. Along the edges of the square itself you’ll find the Palazzo Vecchio, the Palazzo Ugcciono, the Logia dei Lanzi — a small open air museum — and the Fountain of Neptune. And if you place the Duomo at the centre, and drew a circle around the narrow streets and lanes that surround it, you would also capture the Uffizi, the Accademia Gallery and the Pitti Palace, so it really is the centre of everything! You’re spoiled for choice when it comes to cafes, bars and restaurants too, and fashion and architecture. Not to mention a handful of top accommodation options.
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The area around the Piazza Santa Croce has a number of artisans workshop, as well cafes, bars and restaurants, so it’s got plenty of life day and night. The neighbourhood’s main sight is the Basilica Santa Croce, where you’ll find the tombs of Michelangelo, Galileo, Dante, Rossini, and Machiavelli, and frescoes by Giotto and his pupils - this is a ‘must-see’ sight for many visitors, so expect a certain amount of buzz. On the other sides of the piazza are the 15th century Palazzo Cocchi-Serristori, and the Palazzo dell’Antella - so the views are impressive every way you look. The piazza around the church entrance has a charming collection of cafes, bars and restaurants, and foodies will be interested in visiting the Sant’Ambrogio Market, which is a great place for sampling local produce. This is a lovely neighbourhood for romantic, family-run boutique hotels and B&Bs; family-friendly accommodation, and apartment hotels - as well as larger hotels.
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San Niccolò is on the opposite side of the Arno from the Centro Storico, but still within the medieval city walls; in fact it's the only place in Florence where you can actually see the original walls. The neighbourhood is also known for its contemporary art galleries; boutiques specialising in local brands; local cuisine; and a hipster crowd. It is a bit of a cobbled labyrinth, but it boasts numerous charming piazzas lined with places to eat and drink, and the Piazzale Michelangelo, one of the Florence’s best known viewpoints. The quickest route between this neighbourhood and Santa Croce is across the Ponte delle Grazie, which is the best place to take shots of the more famous Ponte Vecchio. Accommodation in San Niccolò includes more apartments and apartment hotels, perfect for anyone planning a longer stay.
The Santa Maria Novella neighbourhood is close to the main train station, so a good option for anyone wanting to do a bit of travelling further afield. It’s not one of the most beautiful or historic parts of the city, but you will find a healthy selection of good value accommodation. The most atmospheric area is around the Piazza de Santa Novella, which is between the station and the historic centre — only about a ten minute stroll from the Duomo — and close to the Mercato Centrale, and San Lorenzo street market. Santa Maria Novella runs along the right bank of the Arno, so some of the hotels here have Arno views. For local sights you've got the exhibition centre, which has taken over several palazzo, the Basilica of Santa Maria Novella, and several significant contemporary art museums. It’s not a bad neighbourhood for shopping, either…
Oltrarno isn’t just where the Ponte Vecchio goes to, this long and narrow stretch of land on the ‘other’ side of the Arno is also home to the Palazzo Pitti; the Brancacci Chapel; the Boboli Gardens and the Church of Santo Spirito. You can also expect colourful evenings, great food, and the possibility of popping into artisan’s workshops, and maybe even taking a class or two. The Boboli Gardens are Florence’s largest public park — there are 11 acres of gardens, with fountains, sculptures, and a magical man-made grotto — making this a great neighbourhood for families to stay in. The gardens were once the grounds of the Palazzo Pitti, which is home to an incredible art collection that includes works by Raphael, Rubens, Titian and Correggio, as well as more contemporary artists. Surrounding the Pitti Palace are cobbled streets, small but picturesque churches, and charming piazzas. And you’re only a15 minute walk across the bridge from the Centro Storico.
San Frediano is a distinct neighbourhood within Oltrarno, worth mentioning because it lines the bank of the Arno, and has a fantastic foodie culture. Crammed with traditional trattorias and osterias, this is a great part of town to stay in if you’re interested in the food and produce of Tuscany, as well as the art and culture of Florence. You’ll know if you’re serious about this if you’re excited by the idea of trying lampredotto — traditional Florentine tripe sandwiches! There are some up-and-coming restaurants too. As well as river views and fantastic food, San Frediano offers a collection of charming churches, a famous art school, and a relaxed nightlife. Plus you’re just across the Ponte all Carria from Piazza Goldoni!
On three sides of Florence are inviting green hills planted with vineyards and olive groves, and dotted with historic villas — many of which have been converted into hotels or guesthouses. This is where those who could afford it used to escape the hottest days of Florence’s summers, and that’s still the case now: the hills are a great option if you’re visiting Florence during the busiest season, they get the afternoon breezes and the rural cool. Accommodation in the hills around Florence often comes with a pool, or even a spa — possibly even with a view! — and many of the hotels in the hills offer a regular shuttle service to the historic centre of Florence, meaning you can sightsee all day and enjoy an easy trip back to your hotel pool. A hotel in the Florence hills is the perfect option for anyone who wants the best of all worlds: fabulous culture and shopping in town, alongside a garden with a pool and a view and a relaxed evening vibe.
Fiesole is five kilometres (about 20 minutes) from the historic centre of Florence by car or bus. It is a good neighbourhood to consider if you like the idea of staying in the hills of Florence, but don't want an isolated villa. Fiesole has many of the charms of a classic Tuscan town, with the additional benefit of being on the doorstep of Florence, and of having fantastic panoramic city views. As well as a charming cathedral, several graceful palazzos and numerous villas, a smattering of lovely churches and piazzas lined with charming restaurants, bars and gelateria, Fiesole also has ancient Roman baths, a Roman theatre and an Archaeological Museum in which to display more Roman treasures.
