Karohi Haveli

Set on a hill in the less touristy Hanuman Ghat, this haveli is more secluded than most. Built in 1820 as the home of the Rajput Karohi family, it was converted into a hotel in 2006, but the design remains traditional: you can’t miss the vast, intricately carved wooden haveli doors and exquisite frescoes above. The courtyard effuses peace and quiet: a fountain creates the tranquil sound of water; there are trees and tropical plants, and sculptures of horses and prancing deer. Remnants of a lost era are everywhere: a centuries-old saddle, a gramophone and photographs of Maharaj Vijay Singh ji Karohi (with his magnificent beard) and Maharaj Dr Sangram Singh ji Karohi. The detail extends to the winding staircase and corridors, where there are old chests, copper pots, ornate mirrors and antique benches. The 26 spotless rooms have king-sized beds, large arched windows, white walls, marble floors and heavy haveli doors. Book one that’s east facing, so you can watch the sun rise over the lake, Lal Ghat and the City Palace. Bathrooms are stylish with black-marble basins, white tiles and signature shower gel and shampoo. There’s also a swimming pool and a rooftop restaurant, which serves delicious Rajasthani classics in cool copper dishes.