Pentonbridge Inn

Hotel review

Look at this place on the map and you might dismiss it – standing isolated on a minor road inthe lonelier part of Cumbria, 20 minutes from anywhere of consequence (Carlisle). But that would be a mistake – especially if you appreciate exceptional food.This pub-with-rooms offers Michelin-starred dining in stylishly relaxed surrounds. The former coaching inn, less than a mile from the Scottish border, has been carefully updated to retain a country pub feel – slate floors, traditional-pattern rugs, exposed-stone walls – but with a warm, modern style: leather banquettes, tweed-upholstered armchairs and contemporary landscape paintings. The open-plan ground floor curves around the bar and open kitchen while a conservatory on one side gives views into Scotland. Nine bedrooms, some in a barn conversion annexe, are similarly country-contemporary witha light, fuss-free style of neutral walls, warm woods, tartans and tweeds, and with smart bathrooms. Those above the pub have the best views; those in the annexe are more private. But, to the food. Head chef Chris Archer and his five-strong team gained a Michelin star forthe kitchen’s cooking in 2023. It’s tasting-menu only but of sensible-size dishes whereflavour rather than artful presentation is the driving force: perhaps Cumbrian lamb withstuffed morel, torched mackerel with compressed cucumber, and tangy rhubarb with rich gingerbread. Around 70 per cent of the fruit and vegetables travels only four miles, from the vast walled garden of Netherby Hall (the Hall and pub share the same owners) while meat and game are from local farms. Breakfast is deliciously simple and satisfying, taken in the conservatory while gazing to the hills of Scotland.

Helen Pickles Review published: 26/02/2024