Morocco's colourful, pungent and frenetic centres are the perfect opposite to the vast expanses of pale, mystical desert and the rugged ridge of the Atlas Mountains. The main cities, built around their incredible marketplaces, have been hosting visitors for centuries, first those on the great trade routes, then those in thrall to the exoticism of the east, and of Africa.
There's so much to experience here, from assailing great mountains, to parasailing and learning to roll cous cous to learning to haggle for rolls of rugs. But whatever you do you'll need somewhere to relax at the end of the day, and the best places to stay in Morocco all offer that chance to unwind over a mint tea.
Marrakech promises romance and a touch of exoticism, but not everyone expects it to be so exhilirating! Its old souks, ancient and beautiful architecture, maze of streets and a whirlwind-like Medina experience like no other, qualify it for many a bucket list. Though if you're just looking for some winter sun you've also come to the right place. Either way, after your adventures getting lost amongst the colours and smells and crowds and dust you'll welcome some time being pampered in one of Marrakech's traditional hammams, or Turkish baths.
Fez, the old, and ancient capital, overwhelms the senses with its colour, noise and cacophony of smells. The medieval Medina of Fez, with its 90,000 streets and alleyways, is partly covered so you get some respite from the sun, but none from the spitting camels, menagerie of animals, and the entrepreneurial spirit of vendors. Pick through the nicknacks and you will find hidden treasures here - but remember that haggling is a way of life. Or just eat your fill from a wonderfully enticing spread of street food. Head to the madrases if you need respite. The tanneries and dying pits of Fez are also a fascinating place to visit, and of course this city has some of he world's most treasured Arabic architecture.
Essaouira spreads along a long sandy strip of Morocco's Atlantic coast, the kind of place you'd imagine Peter O'Toole's Laurence of Arabia riding in to off the desert. Definitely Moroccan, but with a European familiarity. What wouldn't work for the filmic Laurence is the backdrop swooping with windsurfers and kitesurfers. It's these active travellers who've helped protect Essaouira's natural charms from becoming over touristy. Today the busy medina is just as important as a market place as it ever was. This port is not just a pretty museum to a past life, it's still vibrant.
If you want the desert you might consider Ouarzazate, a quiet town at the base of the High Atlas mountains in Saharan Morocco, for a long time a waypoint for traders between Africa and Europe. But if you want to see our experience something of Morocco's Berber culture you'll need to journey into the High Atlas. Aït-Benhaddou, with its mud brick buildings is one of the best known of the tiny Berber villages which cling to these mountains - probably because of its World Heritage Status. Amizmiz is another well known town, this time it's probably because it has one of the largest Berber souks in the area.
If you've come to Morocco for adventure you'll also want the High Atlas mountains. Jebel Toubkal is probably the tallest of them: it's both one of the highest mountains in North Africa, and a very achievable summit - it can be done in two or three days.
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Marrakech (Diour Saboune)
Exuding the lust for life of its musical owner this riad allows guests to "cocoon" in the lap of affordable luxury in bustling Marrakech. The individually designed rooms include sumptuous silks, pop colours and mosaic tiles. The menu is gourmet and there's a roof terrace and hammam.
Marrakech (Quartier Dar El Bacha Marrakech Médina)
Spacious and elegant, this colonial style riad in the bustling Marrakech medina is the epitome of luxury. French antiques are scattered throughout the property alongside traditional Moorish architecture. Feast on regional classics, be pampered in the spa. Perfectly placed for city exploring.
Essaouira
This colourful, characterful riad owned by a French artist will appeal to a younger crowd who appreciate a relaxed, informal atmosphere. Guests can dine at the proprietor's lively nearby restaurant.
Essaouira
French-run medina riad in a popular part of town with 9 well proportioned rooms and a lovely sheltered roof terrace. Deliciously innovative food and well staffed.
Fez (Batha)
This old family house provides value for money considering the generously proportioned and elegantly decorated rooms, complete with four poster beds. Located in Fez medina there is an inviting roof terrace from which to enjoy panoramic views. Breakfast is served with lunch and dinner on request.
Fez (Quartier ziat)
One of the most architecturally impressive this French run riad enjoys an excellent location in Fez medina. A marble floored entrance leads to intricately tiled rooms, decorated in rich fabrics and dark cedar wood furnishings. A healthy Moroccan breakfast is served as well as dinner by arrangement.
High Atlas (Imlil)
A simple and charmingly rustic guesthouse perched in the High Atlas mountains above Imlil.
High Atlas (Imlil Asni)
A wonderful, simple yet comfortable, guesthouse in the heart of the High Atlas. Magnificent scenery, exquisite rooms, respect for the community. The warmest of welcomes and an excellent base for walking or heading to the hills.
Taroudant (Taroudant)
Expect a warm welcome at this authentic medina haven. Rooms lead off from a lush pool courtyard with an array of exotic plants and lots of cosy nooks & convivial areas to relax in, while the restaurant offers delicious seasonal cuisine. Great value for a well-situated, elegant and friendly base!
Taroudant (Taroudant 83000 )
A tranquil and leafy haven, surrounded by an exquisite garden with a pool. Understated rooms, ideal for a calm retreat, with the town on your doorstep if you want to venture out to the souks. Breakfast included and other meals can also be prepared upon request. A simple yet pretty holiday idyll.
Rabat (Médina)
A charming guesthouse in the heart of historic Rabat. The traditional house has been beautifully converted with the potted plant-filled courtyard now complete with plunge pool. Indulgent breakfasts are served on the roof terrace (along with fabulous views) while rooms keep their traditional charm.
Rabat (Bab Laalou)
An enchanting riad well located near the centre of Rabat. Atmospheric rooms are well proportioned and keep their original charm; think intricately tiled floors, arched windows, antique furniture and free standing baths. Boasting a pretty central courtyard, hammam and rooftop with views. Very chic.
Tangier
In a modern complex in the residential Boubana quarter outside the main city, this guest house sits within its own manicured garden with a pool. Suitable for couples, business and groups.
Tangier
Well located and easy to find in Petit Socco district just as you start the ascent towards the medina, this large traditional-style hotel, housed in a former bank is perfect for groups large or small.