Perched right at Sri Lanka’s northern tip, laid-back Jaffna feels a million miles from the chaotic bustle of the island’s commercial capital, Colombo. Largely closed to visitors until the end of the 26-year civil war in 2009, a small hospitality industry has emerged in recent years. There is a range of accommodation for all budgets, from simple hostels and family-run B&Bs to luxury hotels. Finding the best places to stay in Jaffna remains an art — there are anonymous modern offerings aplenty — but scratch below the surface and you can find hidden gems in charming heritage houses.
Foodies will be pleased to hear that the region is famous for several seafood specialities, sourced from the nearby saltwater lagoon — most notably the ever-popular Jaffna Crab Curry. There’s heaps of history here, too, from the remains of a star-shaped Portuguese and Dutch-era Fort, to the beautifully rebuilt Jaffna Public Library, the red-and-white Nallur Kandaswamy temple to striking St Mary’s Cathedral. For a real sense of Jaffna's turbulent recent history, guided tours come highly recommended. Keerimalai Hot Springs or Kankesanthurai Beach are also a short drive away.
Trundle along the causeway connecting nearby islands to the mainland, with fishermen wading in the shallows and birds circling overhead. The sacred sites of Nagadipa and the former Dutch settlement on Delft Island, where wild ponies roam, are both accessible by ferry. There are limited options when it comes to bars and restaurants, but this does mean that Jaffna’s balmy evenings are quiet and calm. Book a spot at one of the best places to stay in Jaffna, and soak up some culture without the crowds. Visited by relatively few travellers, this northern city makes for seriously special off-the-beaten-track exploring.