Le St James

Hotel review

Connoisseurs of fine wine, fine dining and daring modern architecture adore Le Saint-James, poised above Bordeaux on the east bank of the Garonne. This is a hotel that can be a blissful oasis, or a super base for shopping and sightseeing in Bordeaux or exploring some of the world's great vineyards. And no wonder. This is French hotelkeeping at its best: the kind of discreetly attentive service that France does so well, fine dining combined with brasserie informality, and a wine list to kill for, all in gorgeous surroundings. For a less formal meal, the hotel's own bistrot, Café L'esperance, is a short walk away, on Bouliac's quiet main street. Le Saint-James is on the outskirts of pretty Bouliac, which feels as if it's in the remote heart of the Dordogne but is only ten minutes from central Bordeaux. At night, there's a stunning view of the city's glittering through the floor-to-ceiling windows of the Michelin-starred restaurant, where the menu is influenced by the terroir of Aquitaine and the wine list features – alongside Bordeaux's big names - the hotel's own Vin du Jardin, from its four-hectare vineyard. Outside, next to the vineyard and surrounded by floweruing shrubs, is a huge, stylishly black, pool – heated, so you can swim regardless of weather. Bedrooms are coolly quirky with touches like comfortable sofas in the shape of giant baseball mitts. Outer walls are mostly glass, so rooms are deliciously light. Triple glazing and powered blinds ensure a good night's sleep. In-room perks include fluffy robes and Eau d'orange verte toiletries, and it's a pleassant surprise to find that soft drinks and beer from the minibar cost no more than in a local café. As for the architecture: Jean Nouvel's rusted-steel pavilions, inspired by the old tobacco barns of Bordeaux , would raise howls of protest in the Costwolds. Here, they're listed by the ministry of culture as part of France's 20th century patrimoine.

Robin Gauldie Review published: 23/10/2018