Essaouira spreads along a long sandy strip of Morocco's Atlantic coast. The kind of place you'd imagine Peter O'Toole's Laurence of Arabia riding in to from the desert. Definitely Moroccan, but with a European familiarity - it was designed by a Frenchman. What wouldn't work for Toole's Laurence is the air full of windsurfers and kitesurfers. Some of the best places to stay in Essaouira cater for this crowd, but most are ideal for those who are here for more than the waves.
The powerful and constant wind, the locals call it alizee or taros, which makes this sunny, sandy destination unpleasant for people who want to sit on the beach, makes Essaouira heaven for windsurfers and kitesurfers. And in a way it's these active travellers who've helped protect Essaouira's natural charms from becoming over touristy.
Today the busy medina is just as important a market place as it ever was. This port is not just a pretty museum to its past life, it's still vibrant. Essaouira's protected natural harbour made it an important trade route, hence the massive medina. The labyrinth of streets has been famously recorded by many and is a delightful tangle of treasure - and a nightmare for cars - so visitors are forced to navigate the same pathways as the sugar pirates who influenced the layout of the town.
The beach is long, curving and quiet and the hotels are – generally – more boutique one-offs than Travelodge, so the vibe is more independent traveller than tour group. The streets are too narrow for those big buses.
It's only from the outside that Essaouira looks European, within the narrow alleyways permeated by spicy smells whipped around by the wind it feels very Moroccan. As well as the spices and the smell of the sea the air is filled with the sounds of Gnawa singing.
This is also a great place to visit in winter, when it's quieter and many of the best places to stay in Essaouira are not so busy.
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Essaouira
This colourful, characterful riad owned by a French artist will appeal to a younger crowd who appreciate a relaxed, informal atmosphere. Guests can dine at the proprietor's lively nearby restaurant.
Essaouira
French-run medina riad in a popular part of town with 9 well proportioned rooms and a lovely sheltered roof terrace. Deliciously innovative food and well staffed.
Essaouira
A lovely creamy clad guesthouse, formerly an Imam's residence. Sunny rooms have white washed walls, comfortable beds, and splashes of colour. Cosy living areas have fireplaces and there's a fabulous roof top terrace. Excellent value, available for exclusive use.
Essaouira
Understated hippie chic that will appeal to couples looking for a serene, zen vibe. Light and bright airy white-washed rooms overlook a courtyard or one of several terraces. Bathrooms are ornately tiled, some compact. There is a funky restaurant and a hot tub. The beach is moments away.
Essaouira
Belgian owned guesthouse with three self-contained suites in a good location, close to both beach and medina. A simple place for groups or a family who might want to take over the whole property. Meals provided.
Essaouira
Self-catering apartments by the sea with lovely views. All are individually furnished and are mostly in an easy open-plan layout. Expect traditional Moroccan accents, cosy nooks, whitewashed walls and roll-top baths. A delightful base with a luxurious yet homely feel; it's great-value too.
Essaouira
Looming large on the horizon this impressive guesthouse caters for couples, families and large groups. Bohemian rooms are decorated in colourful palettes and chunky furnishings. There is a hammam plus massage and two pools. Great service in a palatial place with an informal atmosphere.
Essaouira
An elegant, traditional Moroccan style guesthouse, located just 900m from the beach in Sidi Kaouki. Suites are spacious and colour co-ordinated with exposed stone walls and open fireplaces. Enjoy a delicious gourmet breakfast with fresh juices, Moroccan pancakes and bread.
Essaouira (Diabat)
Charming, informal hotel close to Essaouira where guests stay in simple bungalows.
Essaouira
With lots of space and plenty of privacy this is an informal understated place in the countryside not far from the buzz of Essaouira for couples to relax or big groups to congregate. Wide choice of spotlessly clean accommodation - catering for different numbers and budgets
Essaouira
Completely charming traditional riad with romantic rooms and suites. Colour themed rooms in pastels with chequered floors, whimsical furnishings, and Moroccan art. Lovely terrace, alcoves and roof terrace for sun bathing. A romantic spot, also family friendly.
Essaouira
Traditional Berber house just outside Essaouira surrounded by beautiful countryside. Six room and two suites furnished in classic style with carved wooden headboards and tiled floors. There's a lovely pool for cooling off and wonderful Moroccan dinners created from the market's best ingredients.
Essaouira
Blissful peace awaits those lucky enough to get a room at this hidden four-room chambres d'Hôtes/boutique B&B. A calm, sensitively designed interior plays host to work by local artists. Breakfast and dinner can be enjoyed on site and picnics are offered too.
Essaouira
A beautiful boutique riad in the old ramparts. It oozes heritage and traditional romance. Sunny rooms and suites all in creams with four poster beds, artworks, and balconies onto the inner courtyards. Fantastic roof top terrace and great Moroccan restaurant. A great value spot for couples.
Essaouira
A charming rural property that works for families, groups or couples. Attractive accommodation to the east of Essaouira, with suites and studios, plus two outdoor pools, an excellent entertainment area and spa/hammam ensure something for everyone. The restaurant serves delicious local cuisine.
Essaouira
An unbeatable waterfront location overlooking the Atlantic. Just eight individually designed rooms and suites offer comfortable, spoiling accommodation with stunning views. Helpful hosts will organise your activities and advise on eating out. An elegant stay in one of the best spots in town.
Essaouira
Eclectic and characterful four-riad guesthouse in the heart of the Medina. Couples and families will love the privacy and surprise factor on offer as well as the highly efficient staff. A romantic spot overlooking the sea
Essaouira
Charming, intimate riad just outside Essaouira. Rooms, suites and 2 cottages sleep up to 6 are arranged around a pretty courtyard. Decor is traditional & calming and each room is individually designed. A gorgeous pool (heated in winter) is perfect for relaxing after a day exploring or on the beach.
Essaouira (Oued kseb)
A fantastic oasis of beautiful gardens, traditional-chic Moroccan suites, sprawling terraces, excellent North African/French cuisine, and spa - on the edge of Essaouira. A great example of Moroccan tradition and French-chic. A great venue for a private party with a "Wow factor".
Essaouira
In the NW part of the medina, this is one of the more chic and discreet Essaouiran retreats. Guests are treated to seclusion, contemporary comfort, spacious tadelakt rooms & bathrooms, private balconies and a lovely roof terrace with hot tub. A romantic spot for two.
Essaouira
A hotel in a former family palace with a charming garden and pool. Beautifully furnished interiors have lots of cosy nooks to relax in and feature gorgeous Moroccan tilework, intricate stucco and carved wood. Elegant rooms have opulent fabrics and fine cedar furniture. A luxurious treat!
Essaouira
Foodies, luxe detailists and style lovers will enjoy the experience of staying here - where good smells, beautiful views and delicious food unite to make for an exotic sensory experience. Popular cookery workshops on site.
Essaouira (Sidi Kaouki)
Superb villa style family friendly resort on the coast about half an hour from Essaouira. Spacious acommodation in traditional style villas some with private pool. Excellent facilities for all ages and a personal dining service enabling you eat where you please! A wonderful laid back beach holiday.
Essaouira
A fabulous 18th century boutique riad in a perfect location - minutes from the beach and the golf course. Sand stone columns, sculpted woods, and beautiful fabrics blend oriental tradition and western luxury. A lovely roof terrace has stunning coastal views. A luxurious treat.
Essaouira (Essaouira 44000 )
A charmingly ostentatious hotel in a prime spot in the Medina. The quirky roof terrace offers great sea views, while the eclectic interiors are an ode to the tradition of Moroccan hand-cut tiles, with a frenzy of colourful, repeating geometric patterns and jazzy furniture. A truly original base!
Essaouira
Discreet riad in quiet, off piste location by the Medina boundary wall with impressive bathrooms, friendly staff and resident turtle. Good for couples
Essaouira
Magical rustic hideaway not far from Essaouira. A unique and authentic place to completely unwind in nature. For those who don't mind simplicity, low doorways and a quirky layout.
Essaouira
Large timeless French colonial-style Relais & Chateaux hotel just inside the Medina wall that will appeal to those who favour old school service. Ideal for couples and groups who want all the facilities and amenities of a classic 5 star establishment
Essaouira
An exclusive use eco-hideaway on the Moroccan coast, just 15km north of Essaouira. Six rustic chic bedrooms sleep up to 15 people and there are various spaces for yoga, teaching and more. The garden includes a natural plunge pool and you're just 10 minutes walk to the beach. Min stay 2 nights.
